TRAVEL TIP

Although we did everything in about 4 days, I would highly recommend going for at least 6 days and spending more time in Cusco as well as the surrounding Inca sites, such as Moray, the Salineras, Chokekiraw and Tipon to name a few.

Urubamba Valley

The scenic drive alone is worth the journey to Peru. The views of the Urubamba Valley are breathtaking and uplifting. The Valley is so vast, I felt so small yet so empowered. The different colors of the landscape are a symphony for the eyes, heart, spirit and soul. I didn't want to leave, I could have stayed there for ever.

Our hotel - Inkallpa Valle Sagrado Hotel, is  located in the heart of the Urubamba Valley and is very very nice. The accomodations are comfortable and the staff is very attentive. We had a leak in our bathroom and they were so quick to take care of it and offer us a different room. Watching the Milky Way in all of its splendor before going to sleep was such a treat, the stars were so bright, everything there feels sacred. It's such a wonderful feeling to have. Of course waking up surrounded by all the beauty of the Valley was another
special moment. 

The only thing I thought could have been better is their breakfast. It's pretty basic, but at the same time, we were on our way to Machu Picchu, so frankly my dear...I didn't gave a damn!

Pisac Village

What a beautiful and quaint village. Beyond the kindness of its people, it's a great place to start your peruvian exploration of the culture. The market is full of great finds, from Alpaca blankets to Pan flutes and spices, it has everything. So take your time when shopping, most merchants have about the same items and bargening is custom there, so don't hesitate to negociate the price down, they expect it! You'll be approached many, many times by indigenious women wearing traditional clothing and holding baby goats or lamas...As much as you try not to do it, (give them money in exchange of a picture), you can't resist the chance to hold a cute little goat and play with their beautiful children.
You have to do it at least once!

What I loved about both places

I loved the breathtaking beauty of the landscape. I loved the sacredness of the Valley, you could feel it, everywhere, all the time. I loved the people in both places, their children and their dogs. Dogs roam free in Peru, with everyone taking care of them and being mindful of them. 

En route to Machu Picchu | Inca Rail

The drive to Ollanta Station to board the Inca Rail Machu Picchu train is another treat. I was thinking it can't really get better than this after the drive through the Sacred Valley and to Ollanta station. Well it does. The train ride is insane with breathtaking view, a real feast for your eyes. I couldn't get enough, I was taking so many pictures, I never wanted to forget. The pictures were bad (a moving train is not the best setting for pictures!), but my memory is intact. I remember the snow caped mountain peaks in the distance, the green and brown and every hue in betweem mixed beautifully.

The train is very comfortable, and they even have an included service onboard. They offer a selection of teas, coffee and snacks that are actually good!

Machu Picchu

Words cannot describe Machu Picchu. But before we got there, we took a short bus ride from the train station to Machu Picchu. That drive is another reason alone to travel to Peru. As we climbed in altitude, the mountains that seemed so out of reach are now at your finger tips, they are green, dark green, light green, pointy, rugged, simply beautiful. I felt like a kid, my eyes wide open, and my nose pressed against the window; not wanting to miss a thing. I took videos and photos, and did run into the same issue as the train. Bumpy rides do not help in taking beautiful pictures!

As the bus dropped us off, I couldn't contain my excitement, I have been waiting for this moment for 30 years! I still had to wait a bit longer, there is a line.

Although we arrived fairly early, still, some people made it even earlier. I'll never forget the moment I finally laid eyes on the Lost City of the Incas. I thought it couldn't get better than this.

It did, after a short climb, which at this altitude is a a bit of an effort, I saw the million dollar shot of Machu Picchu, the picture I have had on my vison board all these years. The one every one has seen.  I was seeing it, better yet, I was in it. The moment a dream comes true is really a wonderful feeling. I felt blessed, priviledged and grateful beyond words. 

When I passed through the entrance to the city through the rocky doorway, It felt magical. I felt like I was part of history, part of something very sacred and special.  I can't find the proper words to describe it, I guess it's something that has to be felt and experienced. 

TRAVEL TIP

Try to arrive at Machu Picchu as early as you can. First, you'll enjoy shorter lines to get in, less people at the site (great for pictures) AND you'll avoid the hot hot afternoon sun. Don't forget to get your Machu Picchu stamp on your passport as you leave, they have the stamps just before the exit.

About Cusco

Cusco was better than I ever imagined, every corner I turned, ever street I took was filled with delightful surprises. Simple ones such as little children walking around and playing, their beautiful smiles brightening everything around them, the "free" dogs roaming the streets completely happy without a care in the world, generous people and beautiful architecture that add the final touches. 

Cusco is even better than any description that I have ever read. You can see and feel the history, you can taste it in their cuisine, hear it in their stories and when you leave this fantastic city, you get to take a bit of Cusco with you. 

Best Finds

I was amazed by all Cusco has to offer. Beyond the rich and fascinating history, storytelling ruins and beautiful architecture; the food was such a surprising inspiration, so much that I will learn to make ceviche now! I absolutely have to, I have had it before, but not this good. Limo's located at Plaza de Armas has the best ceviche and Pisco Sours.

Anntarah is a beautiful store just underneath Limo's and has beautiful sweaters, hats etc., all very fashionable and reasonably priced (no bargaining there though, it's all fixed pricing). Most of their items are made by hands and they have beautiful baby and kids items as well.  

Most Memorable Moment

On Sunday morning, we set out to find a great place for breakfast. I was really hungry too. Before we could find anything, we ran into a great parade, filled with folkloric dancers, musicians - it was extraordInary. People were lined up in the streets and every one watched with wonder filled eyes as each dancing group passed by. While I was so busy taking it all in, and taking tons of pictures and videos, I did notice a family standing next to me. The little girl was so cute, so amazed by what was unfolding before her eyes. I took a few pictures of her and her brother. At some point, their mother took out some bread, and gave them some. I didn't notice until she gently touched my arm and offered me some. I was so touched. It was a random act of kindness that I will never forget, I was hungry ( and actually forgot about it) and she shared her family bread with me, just like that, just because. It was a beautiful moment. 

Currency Exchange & General Information

• Exchange your money in Lima if you can, as you will get a much better exchange rate than Cusco and all the smaller towns along the way to Machu Picchu.

• In Cusco, on Avenida Del Sol (main street in Cusco) you'll find a lot of banks and ATMs. You can take money in both Soles and US. Dollars. All ATMs charge a foreign transaction fee. Also, not all of them bip to take your card out before it dispenses the cash, so make sure to not leave your card in the ATM! 

• Most stores and merchants accept US. Dollars. Although I found that when you do so, you end up paying more than if  you paid in Soles.

• Drink only bottled water to be on the safe side.

• To avoid the trip ruining Tourista, you can protect yourself with pro-biotics which will help your digestive system adapt faster and better. Start taking them 48h before your trip starts and continue while travelling. Many of my friends swear it changed their abroad digestive lives for the better!

• If you don't book any tours ahead of time, don't worry, there are plenty of competitive agencies offering every tour imaginable, from a simple city tour of Cusco to the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, rafting trips, and surrounding archeological sites around Cusco and Machu Picchu. Shop around once there to see who gives you the best deal.

Important Information

• On your flight back from Cusco to Lima, do not buy any liquids such as Pisco. First of all, it's not a duty free, so you'll be paying airport prices. But most importantly, you have to go through security once again in Lima, since they make you exit the arrivals terminal (which I didn't not know, and it turns out to be a pretty importat detail). Liquids such bottles of water are allowed on domestic flight in Peru, but are not on international flights (like the rest of the world). So if you purchased your Pisco at Cusco airport (as I foolishly did), not only will they take away your beautiful $40 Pisco bottle, they will throw in the trash right in front of you and no amount of negociation or persuation will help you. The security agent will throw it away. It's such a waste. Save your duty free purchases for Lima airpot, they have a huge duty free store with a lot of choices. Also, depending on your flight departure time, you may need to be prepared to wait in line for quite a bit. The cashiers have to fill out a bunch of forms before you an get your goodies. Liquids are the only thing they will deliver to your gate. everything else, you will have to log around.

• If you use your American Express credit card during your trip, some stores will ask you to add your passport number to the store copy of the receipt. Or any another form of identification's number. Don't. Put your phone number and that should be enough. I was asked to do it several times during the trip. I even was pressured to do it at Cusco airport when I bought the bottle of Pisco. The cashier kept insisting, but I still gave them my phone number instead, as I  have been during throughtout the trip. 

Shopping

• Bargaining is almost a rule in every small community and town, and Cusco is not the exception. So don't hesitate to practice your negotiating skills; you’ll get an average of 50 to 60% off. I have done it so many times! Don't hesitate to walk away if they won't give you a good price. I always try to get the best price for both the merchant and myself. They do have to make a living and I certainly don't want to take advantage, so always try to find the happy medium. and let's face it, if they are not making a profit, they will simply refuse to sell ( they also know someone else will buy at that price, so don't hesitate to walk away and find a better deal, since most merchants have the same products).

• Handicrafts, regional and local products: You’ll find the best product quality, variety and prices in the small towns along the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Although in Cusco, the local market: El Mercado San Pedro is great for shopping for local products and some souvenirs; it's so cheap, it's incredible. Quinoa, Chia Seeds, flax seeds, chocolate and coffee are so inexpensive! Now be aware of the smells in one area of the market, (fresh meat, poultry etc.) it's quite strong, but I do have a low tolreance for it. 

• Plaza de Armas: the most beautiful square in Cusco, you'll find a few stores, one especially that sells great quality, locally made and some handmade clothing items: Anntarah. Their items are very hip and modern with Peruvian accents. They even ship worldwide!

Must-see Places in Cusco

• Compania de Jesus, is a Jesuit church built in the 16th century. It was badly damaged by the 1650 earthquake but was rebuilt and finished in the late 1660s. La Compania was the source of considerable controversy when it was built, because its grandeur threatened to surpass that of the cathedral in the same square.

• The Plaza de Armas has been the heart of Cusco from the time of the Inca Empire, it used to be called Huacaypata or Aucaypata. The cathedral, on the northeast side of the Plaza de Armas is the main attraction, flanked by two additional churches. Construction on Cusco's cathedral began in 1559 and was completed in 1669. It is built on the site where the Inca Wiracocha's palace once stood. Plaza de Armas is great during the day with it's colonial arcades, restuarants and coffee shops over looking the square. At night, it's very lively and full of people strolling, eating and drinking. You'll even find a couple of pubs and a Starbucks Coffee!

• The famous 12-sided stone is  located on Hatunrumiyoc which runs northeast from the Plaza de Armas. It's usually easy to spot because souvenir sellers set up regularly directly across from the stone. You cannot touch the walls nor the 12-sided stone, a guard is on duty to prevent it. Although I saw many people sneak a touch! Incas are known for their astonishing stone work. Some of the best places to see them are along the streets of Loreto and Hatunrumiyoc. Inca walls line both sides of Loreto, which runs southeast from the Plaza de Armas. The south wall is from Amarucancha, the site of the Palace of Huayna Capac, and on the north side is the wall of the Acllahuasi, one of the oldest walls in Cusco. 

• There are more must-see places to visit in Cusco, but I unfortuately didn't have enought time. If you can, visit: Santo Domingo and Coricancha, Sacsayhuaman, Museo Inka, Museo Casa Concha, Museo de Arte Precolombino, La Merced, San Blas, San Francisco Church and Monastery

Food & Drinks

• For breakfast, I highly recommend La Valeriana located on Avenida del Sol. They serve so much yummy goodness, it was hard to choose. They offer everything from empanadas, cakes, chocolate croissants, quiches, tiramisu, aji de gallina, delicious juices and smoothies. Whatever you choose, you cannot go wrong! Their service is impecable.
• For lunch, try Papa Cho, their menu is great, it's kind of a fusion cuisine between european, american and peruvian. Their service is impecable and all the wait staff is very friendly. Added bonus, they have a fantastic view of Plaza de Armas. Great place for happy hour and watch the sun go down behind the mountains. 
• For dinner, I highly highly recommend Limo's. Hand's down the best food I have had in Cusco. Their Pisco Sour is out of this world. I had the passion fruit one (numerous times!), it's delicious and goes down like limonade, so be careful! They offered us a complimentary appetizer while we were waiting for our table. I went their twice and both evening it was packed, so if you can, try to make a reservation and ask for one of their veranda table overlooking Plaza de Armas. Limo's is fine dining without the fine dinning prices (God bless the exchange rate!). Their cuisine is very sophisticated, rich in flavor and a feast for both the eyes and the palate. Their Caucas (potato dish) is delicious, their Ceviche is simply the best. And they even make very good sushi with a peruvian touch! I had to try it, and honestly, it tastes almost as good as Nobu in South Beach or Morimoto in NYC, and definetly better than your slightly above average sushi restaurant. 

Stay Connected

Most restaurants and cafes have wifi, you just have to ask them for the password. At Starbucks, it's one login password per purchase, so if traveling with a few people, one Frappucino purchase won't do it for everyone to enjoy the wifi. Some places have a better wifi connection than others, but I also found that it has to do with your US carrier as well ( T-Mobile sucks, ATT is far better).

Language

Most people in Cusco speak english, to some degree or another but enough to understand one another and communicate. If you can, learn some few basic spanish words , they will come in handy when you move further away from Cusco, like in Ollybamba, a beautiful village you go through on your way to Ollanta Station to embark on the Inca Trail Train. If you can stop there, do it and wonder the cobbled stone streets which are full of suprises (good ones of course!).

Altitude Sickness

Cusco and Machu Picchu are way above see level, respectively 11,152 feet and 7,972 feet high. Most people will feel some symptoms of altitude sickness as their body is adjusting to less oxygen in the air. The most common symptoms are dizziness and/or lightheadedness, headaches, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea or constipation, difficulty breathing and you may feel your heart racing. To try to allivieate these symptoms, here are a few tips: 

• Take it easy whenever you can. Especially when climbing the stairs to Machu Picchu, you will feel the shortness of breath. You will be tempted to climb quickly, don't. Taking it easy is the best way to ensure you do not tire quickly and avoid headaches. 

• Consciously take deep breaths, so your body can get more oxygen

• All the medical professionals advise to avoid alcohol. Certain studies show that the effects of alcohol are enhanced at high altitude (i.e. you get drunk more easily). Alcohol may also exacerbate the effects of altitude sickness. So it's a good idea to hold off on the Pisco Sours for the first couple of days you’re in Cusco. From my own personal experience, the effect are indeed enhanced!

• Drink lots of water, which obvioulsy makes you pee a lot, but it's worth it, it does help with both altitude and dehydration since high elevations tend to be very dry, thus you need more water to stay properly hydrated.

• Acclimate at a lower altitude, and ascend slowly. If you can do this, it's the best way to "fight off" altitude sickness, or at least prevent it. It is sometimes hard to follow because it means a possible change of your trip plans. A lot of people recommend that the second your plane lands in Cusco, you should take a taxi or colectivo to the Sacred Valley, about an hour outside of Cusco, where the elevation is about 2,000 feet lower. That's where our hotel was located and it did help. This helps you to acclimate at a lower altitude, and then go back up to Cusco when your body is more used to high altitude. Plus the drive is gorgeous!

• Bring chlorophyll drops with you. I personally never tried it, but I met a lot people who have used them before and swear by them.  Put a few drops in your water every day and apparently you will not suffer from any ill effects from the altitude.  The way this natural treatment works is that the chlorophyll increases the amount of red blood cells in your bloodstream; the more red blood cells there are, the more oxygen they carry, therefore reducing the effects of altitude sickness. 

• Bring Diamox, which is a prescription drug highly effective in treating altitude sickness. I have used it both in Cusco and the Himalayas (in Khardung La which is 17,582 ft high (5,359 m). I have never been really affected by altitude sickness beyond the occasonal headache, I took it however as a precaution and it did definetly help me not be affected. It is recommened to take one pill 24h before arriving in Cusco. A couple of  side effects of Diamox  is that you’ll probably pee more frequently and your fingers and toes can tingle.